I recently finished reading
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert Pirsig. This book now falls into the very small subset of books that I have read twice in my adult life. It would not normally have been a book I would have reread, but my boss gave me a copy shortly before I left for my motorcycle road trip out west.
I am actually glad I reread it. I read it the first time over eight years ago and I don't think I understood it. I know I didn't get the end. Spoiler alert! At the end, the victorious character is Phaedrus, not the more societally acceptable narrator. That changes the book a bit from what I remember of the first reading. I hope my boss didn't give it to me as a commentary on my mental state, but he may have.
To be honest, some of the philosophy parts of the book are a bit painful to read. But the motorcycle parts are fun and the break-up of both with the other makes for an interesting read. What made the book extra fun to read this time is my trip out west took me through many of the same areas mentioned in the book. Mobridge, South Dakota; Miles City, Montana; Missoula, Montana; Lolo, Montana. I can't help but wonder if the canyon the author sees in Oregon is the same one I stopped at. The book is semi-autobiographical and semi-fictional and likely much has changed since the author took his trip. But, maybe not.
I was affected by reading the afterword to learn that the real life Chris was murdered while still young...
Motorcycle touring might have changed since the book was written in 1974. Roads have changed, bikes have changed, and even travel has changed to a degree. So, I give Part One of a few posts on motorcycle touring (not sure if these will be consecutive). I've been traveling on two wheels for over 10 years now and my adventures have taken me through at least 37 states and well over 100,000 miles.
My Philosophy of motorcycle travel revolves around minimalism. This might sound silly coming from someone who owns a Goldwing (a bike big enough to have its own zip code) and an ST1300 (a baby wing), so I admit some hypocrisy here. Previous bikes I've used for touring include a Harley Davidson Electraglide and SuperGlide T-Sport. The T-Sport was one of Harley's truly great all-purpose bikes; it is too bad it only survived for a few years.
Almost any bike can be used for touring. It needs to be interstate legal and interstate capable. The two are not the same. A 250cc bike may be interstate legal, but the capability with two? people and a load may be questionable.
If I didn't do long distance, 2-up touring, I would not have a bike as big as the Goldwing. I do and I do enjoy it. As one fellow who I met on the Alaska highway said of the corider role, "That has to be the hardest job in the world." An uncomfortable passenger is a short ride. I actually like the ST1300 a little more for most solo trips though. I've often thought an "adventure" bike outfitted for the road (and not dirt) would make a great single tourer; sort of a modern version of what used to be a standard bike.
My personal preference is that a bike used for touring should be LOW maintenance. I will have a hard time going back to chain driven motorcycles. I get wrist pain on really long days so I really like having the option of factory cruise control. As much as I like two-lane roads, going on long stretches regardless of the road can be much more enjoyable with cruise control.
One thing I don't care about is a radio. My first bike that had a radio was my 2004 Electraglide. I envisioned listening to tunes for miles down the open road. I found out quickly that with only brief exceptions, I like the contemplative quiet (relative) much more.
I enjoy camping, but not on the bike. Camping is an end to itself. Camping is about doing almost nothing; taking all morning to make breakfast and clean up only to start making lunch a short time later.
I love riding early morning and this is antithetical to camping. Traffic is less. Evil RVs are still in the campgrounds, not destroying an otherwise nice road. After long days on the road, I'll gladly pay for a bed, my own bathroom and a shower. This allows for much lighter packing. Even though I have a Goldwing, I pack as if it was a much smaller bike.
I feel sorry for people who need to motorcycle tour with a trailer. When asked how I can survive for two weeks or more on the road I usually respond (semi) tongue in cheek that all I really need are a credit card and a pistol. A trailer ruins too much of the mobility of the bike. Humans don't have tails, bikes shouldn't either. I've also known several people who have had accidents or problems on the road as a direct result of trailers. Nope, not for me.
To be fair, I used to say the same thing about bikes like the Goldwing or Electraglide though.
There are a few and only a few bike specific necessities. Any major problem on a bike is likely going to need a tow. And while I have fixed some things on the road, what I normally take is a few hand tools
appropriate for the bike. Don't bring an american wrench set if you ride a K1600GTL. The one thing that should be in every touring bike is a good tire plug kit and a small tire inflater. The Stop-n-Go plug kit is great. I've used the plugs successfully for thousands of miles, even though any plug should be considered temporary. CO2 cartridge inflators work, but they will run out. The CyclePump is a bulletproof air compressor which is extremely small, if a bit heavy.
Road clothes should be all day comfortable. Leather looks and smells good, but I prefer textiles over dead animal skin. I've settled on a waterproof coat with many vents. I have the TourMaster Transition but there are may similar jackets. These can be a bit pricey, but when the cost is amortized over thousands of miles they are almost free. I do not use the liners but instead carry a heavy flannel shirt. It packs lighter, serves the purpose of a liner and is dual use as a light jacket or cool weather clothes. On trips expecting colder weather, I also carry a fleece shirt. These pack up very small. Boots must be waterproof and comfortable as old friends. I'm sure I'm approaching if not exceeding 80,000 miles on my current pair and I will be very said when they eventually crack or otherwise break.
A rain suit is a must too. Use it too. Too often, I see approaching rain and think it isn't that bad. Being cold and wet is miserable. Just stop and put it on - he says to self.
Wear a helmet. Put all the hype about freedom, neck injuries and the thickness of the skull somewhere else. They are required in some states, don't pack well and once someone gets used to wearing it,
not having it feels odd. Find one that is likable (or tolerable) and just wear it. I'll stand down from that soap box.
What else to pack? A few underclothes, a few t-shirts, a pair of shorts and a second pair of squishable shoes (I have cheap imitation Chuck Taylors). And, always bring a camera. Always. Don't forget the credit card and pistol. With those two things, access is granted to anything else needed.
That is pretty much all that is needed to tour. If someone is thinking about it, Do It!
Future posts on the topic:
Why travel by motorcycle
How to travel by motorcycle (this may not be as obvious as it sounds); life is an adventure
How motorcycle travel has changed over the last ten years and 37 states for me
